 MERIDIAN: After spending nearly a week recovering from illness, I think the team realized that we probably took on new expeditions faster than we should have after our Grand Canyon hike. That hike was such a huge physical undertaking, that in hindsight we needed more recuperation time. I think the result was exhaustion and compromised immune systems as nearly everyone is ill today. No swine flu, thankfully, just persistent head colds.
Regardless, before taking to our sick beds, we did have a chance to see a variety of very cool features along the Grand Canyon’s south rim and nearby. So, we are taking this “downtime” to catch up on our overdue blogs.
Having looked extensively at the canyon itself during our two-week hike, I was interested in understanding the history and legends that surround the human artifices on the canyon’s south rim. And I don’t mean just the impressive lodges and quaint stores of the Grand Canyon village, but the prehistoric constructions as well. We took an entire day to wander from one end of the rim to the other, driving up I-89 from Flagstaff and then entering the park via Highway 64. It was a cold and misty morning when we arrived and the canyon looked absolutely ethereal. Echo mentioned how it resembled “something out of the Lord of the Rings movies” with great plumes of fog gushing out of the gorge and over the treetops. Our first stop was at the Desert View, which is one of the highest points along the south rim and features an amazing seventy-foot structure called “The Watchtower.” As I gazed up at it, its tall silhouette flickering through the mist, I found I had to agree with Echo’s observation. The site was, well, almost too fantastic to describe.
One of our now dog-eared guide books on haunted places erroneously describes the Watchtower as a ceremonial kiva that is sacred to the Hopi Indians. Actually the structure, though built to resemble the ancient towers used by prehistoric Indians of the Four Corners area, is a modern creation which has no special meaning for the Hopi. It was designed by Mary Colter, a rare female architects for her day and a major contributor to the Grand Canyon’s various tourist spots. Aside from the Watchtower, Colter also designed the Lookout Studio, Hopi House, Hermit’s Rest and the world-famous Bright Angel Lodge. She was also responsible for the buildings at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon. Of all of these, however, the Watchtower is my favorite. Maybe it had something to do with how it was constructed, appearing even on close inspection like a crumbling ruin. It’s a marvelous illusion. Inside the Watchtower is a gift shop and then several upper floors connected by a spiral staircase with numerous windows so you can enjoy the spectacular view. It was from the Watchtower that Polaris was able to take photos of the 1953 airplane crash sites which Mist wrote about in her recent newsletter.
After eating a greasy meal at the nearby snack bar, the team headed west to the Tusayan Ruins. This was actually one of the last of the permanent structures built on the South Rim by a rather shadowy group of Native Americans known as the Ancestral Puebloan people, probably the forbears of the modern Hopi. The site is relatively unremarkable and must be enjoyed more in the mind’s eye. The ruins here are only partially reconstructed but originally accommodated about thirty people some 800 years ago. It’s somewhat humbling to see what they built here with no modern sense of architecture or technology. For a small ruin, the site still contains a kiva, a plaza, various homes, storage rooms and extensive crops including beans, corn and squash. Archaeologists believe it was inhabited for up to thirty years, despite a lack of reliable water sources. Why it was abandoned seems to be a mystery, but it coincides with the larger fall of the Ancestral Puebloan people seen in other parts of the state.
We continued down the Rim Road to the Grand Canyon Village area, a location which we had visited many times in preparation for our hike, but had not spent much time specifically investigating. There are some wonderful buildings and legends here, most of them dating to the early twentieth century when the canyon was just being developed as a tourist spot. This era was filled with all kinds of colorful people, some of whom engaged in very Machivellian tactics as they fought to claim their piece of the canyon’s edge. There were three structures in particular I wanted to visit: the El Tovar Hotel, Hopi House and the Kolb Brothers Studio.
The El Tovar is one of the famous Grand Canyon lodges, first opened by the Fred Harvey Company on New Year’s Day, 1905. At the time it was considered a marvel, offering luxuries such as hot water, central heating and electricity in what was otherwise a very primitive locale. It is a rustic-looking structure, constructed of huge dark timbers and roughhewn stonework. One of the sources I consulted claimed that the hotel is a the site of numerous but somewhat random hauntings and other strange occurrences. Apparently there were two murders here – in 1951 and 1984 – although I could not independently confirm either one nor link them to any of the ghost stories. Certainly, considering the number of people moving through the area on a weekly basis, El Tovar has seen its fair share of deaths, both natural and otherwise. The stories from El Tovar seem more like the product of wild imaginations or tall tales shared to delight tourists. Strange orbs are said to float through the hallways and there are reports of a vaporous man and a woman, both in period dress, appearing to visitors. The former is said by some to be Fred Harvey, the entrepreneur who did so much to develop tourist facilities at many of America’s great national parks. It’s a strange thing to suggest, as Harvey actually died four years before El Tovar was even constructed. I remember that we encountered similar types of stories at the Oregon Caves Chalet, stories in which logic and historical fact were often suspended. I think such structures almost invite this kind of creepy storytelling; and as long as tourists don’t dig too deeply, such tales are easily believed.
Across the plaza from El Tovar is the Hopi House, one of the other structures designed by Mary Colter. Colter patterned this two-story building after the native dwellings in the Hopi village of Old Oraibi some eighty miles away; and like the Watchtower, it gives the remarkable impression of great age and arrested decay. The building was a contemporary with El Tovar, opening its doors in the same year as the hotel. It was originally designed to be a kind of living museum, with Hopi craftsmen residing on the upper floor and providing daily demonstrations. Today, it is one of the nicer gift shops on the South Rim with a dark, cool interior that smells of earth, wood and great age. Again, according to local legend, Hopi House is inhabited by two spirits known as the “Brown Boys” who are responsible for all kinds of poltergeist-type mayhem. But as with the Fred Harvey myth at El Tovar, I couldn’t find any reason for the spirits of two young boys to be lurking among the baskets and shelves filled with Native American pottery. And why are the called “the Brown Boys.” Is ‘Brown” a surname? And if so, where did it come from? Part of me wondered if this might be the name of some early family who lived and worked around Hopi House, but I was not able to confirm this and the genesis of this story remains elusive.
My last destination in the Grand Canyon Village was the Kolb Brothers Studio and the site of perhaps one of the best known of the canyon mysteries.
Brothers Ellsworth and Emery Kolb were photographers, explorers and natural-born daredevils. The brothers originally came to the canyon in 1901, just as its popularity was beginning to rise. They set up a photography studio on the South Rim near the start of the Bright Angel trail and hocked souvenir snapshots to hikers. The unique service was even noted in an issue of the Saturday Evening Post, which read:
“Just under the first terrace a halt is made while the official photographer takes a picture; and when you get back he has your finished copy ready for you, so you can see for yourself just how pale and haggard and wall-eyed and how much like a typhoid patient you looked.”
(I believe a similar service is now offered on every ride in Disneyland, ha, ha!)
Built in 1904, the Kolb Studio was both the home and workplace for Ellsworth and Emery. The building seems to hang precariously above the gorge and offers some amazing views of the length of the canyon. Based from here, t\he brothers produced thousands of images, many depicting themselves in perilous situations as they dangled off rock walls or balanced themselves over deep chasms. Ellsworth and Emery were equally fearless when dealing with their competitors, as they took on monolithic corporations like the Fred Harvey Company for tourist’s dollars and never flinched. In mid-November 1928, the Kolb Studio was visited by some young newlyweds named Glen and Bessie Hyde. The couple had decided to celebrate their union in a most unusual way – attempting the fastest rafting trip through the canyon in history. According to some reports, Emery Kolb became infatuated with Bessie during this meeting. When the Hydes were reported missing a month later, it was the Kolb brothers who organized much of the search effort and eventually found their fully intact scow near River Mile 237.
However, new rumors as to Glen and Bessie’s fate began after Emery Kolb’s death in 1976. Kolb’s nephew revealed a grisly souvenir from Emery’s garage – a completely intact human skeleton. The skull had an obvious gunshot wound to the temple. Were these the remains of Glen Hyde? Did Emery murder the 28-year old in a jealous rage over Bessie? According to the nephew and other family members, the skeleton was not a secret within the Kolb family. Emery claimed to have found it near an old mine shaft and presumed it was that of a prospector. Occasionally he would even pull it out of storage and assemble it like a great jigsaw puzzle on his kitchen table to the macabre fascination of visitors. But who was the dead man?
In an amazing twist to this story, a donation of photographs to the National Park Service in 2006 helped solve part of this mystery. The donation was made by retired Forest Service director Bob Williamson, whose father had worked at the Grand Canyon as a ranger in the 1920s and 30s. In June 1933, bleached human bones were found strewn on a ledge at Shoshone Point, a relatively isolated area on the south rim. A .32-caliber revolver with a spent cartridge was found nearby – the weapon that had inflicted the lethal wound and seemed to indicate a suicide. Investigators believed that the remains had lain out in the elements for several years, as the clothing was in tatters and the only other identifying belongings were a shoe, a leather belt and a pocketbook. Other than determining that the victim was a young man, no one to this day knows who he was or why he took his own life. Regardless, Ranger Williamson documented the site in a series of black and white photos which were donated back to the Park Service by his son seventy-three years later.
It was a volunteer with the Coconino County Sheriff’s Office named Joe Sumner who put all these pieces together. A comparison of the historical photos from Shoshone Point and the mystery remains found in the Kolb Studio confirmed that they were one in the same. Sumner was even able to explain the connection between the bones and Emery Kolb:
...From other research, Sumner discovered that Emery Kolb had sat as a county coroner jury representative for Grand Canyon. Sumner speculates that Kolb must have acquired the skeletal remains as a county representative after the death inquest, but why they ended up in his garage remains a mystery. -Grand Canyon Association Member Newsletter, Spring 2009.
Sumner’s work effectively ends any speculation about the bones belonging to a murdered Glen Hyde, although what happened to Glen and Bessie is still anyone’s guess. The Coconino County Sheriff’s Office continues to work on this case and, maybe with a little more luck, will eventually be able to tell us who the bones really belonged to and why the poor soul decided to end it all in such a remote and beautiful place.
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